The Merits of Meritage

Don't be put off by the nondescript exterior at Meritage...within the walls of this well-traveled Bucktown haunt is a veritable feast for the eyes and tastebuds. We were a bit skeptical when our waiter guided us to our table by way of the kitchen; seeing the rabbit in the hat (or the Calphalon pot as the case may be) kind of kills the mystique of the magician's craft. Nonetheless, like the elk which has earned Meritage a spot in the pantheon of fine Chicago restaurants, we were game...

The waitstaff is cordial, but not overbearing; knowledgeable but not pretentious. Although the Dry Creek Riesling we ordered clocked in at the lower end of the cost range of wines on the menu, this fact did not deter the waiter from singing its praises.

The wine wound up being a perfect complement to our appetizer of crispy escargots in a creamy white cheese sauce, along with a mound of Ahi tuna tartare punctured by crispy tortilla pieces. Yes, they could have thrown in a few more, but the quality of the sauce more than compensated for the quantity of snails.

The main course was a true delight, which we devoured in minutes. Beneath the perfectly blackened skin was a snow-white, flaky fillet of sublime bass meat that melted in our mouth like that confection produced by Mars corporation. Again, the Sonoma blend of fermented grape juice was the perfect accompaniment to Meritage's culinary offerings.

The dessert was nothing if not anti-climactic...after wowing us with the appetizer and main course, I was a bit nonplussed by the lemon custard encased by dry profiterole and covered in chocolate sauce. Perhaps this was not their "core competency".

Nonetheless, this ranks as among one of my better Chicago dining experiences...we will definitely be coming back!